In the 1970’s a new genre of music was birthed. Hip hop was the promise of the American Dream for many African American Kids. An opportunity to make it outside the four walls of an office, a street corner or on the pitch .
By the late 70’s, Hip Hop began to hit the mainstream and with this fame and fortune came chains and Jordans. Jewellery quickly became ingrained in hip hop becoming part of the identity of both creators and consumers.
The inspiration behind wearing big jewellery pieces varied. For some it was to emulate the successful pimps and drug dealers they had seen in previous decades, while others saw it as a way to be in touch with their African heritage where there was a long history of jewellery. But for the most part, it was simply a flex. A status symbol to give the perception that they were climbing the ladder of wealth. Artists like Slick Rick became synonymous with their jewellery making it a big part of their identity.
The Counter Movement : The Native Tongues
Amidst the glitz and glamour, a counter-movement emerged in the late 1980s and early 1990s, challenging the consumerist mentality within hip hop.
At the forefront of this movement was rap collective Native Tongues, consisting of A Tribe Called Quest, De La Soul, Queen Latifah, and the Jungle Brothers. What set them apart was not just their musical style but their distinct image. Hip Hop was typically characterised by Timberland boots, gold jewellery and Kangol hats but Native Tongue embraced Afrocentric aesthetics with dreadlocks, afros, dashikis, and medallions.
Not only that, their message promoted liberation from the materialistic hold that often plagues marginalised communities. With lyrics like “black medallions, no gold” from De La Soul and “I wear no gold around my neck, just black medallions” from Jungle brothers their movement challenged the stereotypes entrenched in hip hop culture.
Present Day
This movement sparked a revolution, breaking the chains of capitalism and offering hope to those who didn’t conform to the stereotypical image of a hip hop artist. Native Tongues paved the way for a new wave of rappers who rejected the flamboyant persona. Today we see artists like J Cole and Talib Kweli Greene, who challenge the conventional image of hip hop through their simple attire, minimal jewellery and introspective lyrics. Despite their efforts, those aligning with this message are often satirically described as “woke”. This movement will likely never be at the forefront but their efforts are not in vain.
The message of this movement is not to reject all materialism and adornment. But rather to embrace the simplicity and know you do not have to wear jewellery to be cool. Rather than demonising materialism, the movement paints it as a luxury to be enjoyed if you have the means as opposed to a necessity required to fit in.